When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.
This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.
“I’m utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.
However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.
The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.
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